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El Hierro certainly is the 'wild west' of the Canaries - the sweeping ravines, volcanic badlands, interior pine forest and the breathtaking views of El Golfo bay from the Peno Mirador will amaze - you do indeed feel like you're at the end of the world, as once this spot was before Columbus discovered America across the mammoth Atlantic. Today El Hierro is a walker's paradise, with numerous old Camino trails across the island. It's the quietest of all the Canary Islands - there's not a huge amount of accommodation here (considered a blessing by many who come for the peace and tranquility of the island). Booking well in advance for both accommodation and car hire is highly recommended! Activities wise, you're looking at some of the best walking across the Canaries, plus a spot of fishing and swimming on naturally formed volcanic beaches and rock pools.
El Hierro is an island of immense mixes - pine forests to the south and interior, to the west volcanic badlands and a jagged coastline, and the views of El Golfo, where rocks soar upwards. Valverde, the only large town to speak of on El Hierro and the island's capital, sits to the north east near the airport. (one of three petrol stations on the island is in Valverde so fill up if you're picking up a car hire from the airport and then heading towards Frontera - the other two are in Frontera and La Restinga). Before Columbus went off on his jaunts, it was El Hierro that was considered the end of the world! There's an air of mystery here, which has a lot to do with it's
Boomerang shaped El Hierro is as untouched by mass tourism as La Palma, indeed more so. Popular for Canary Islands walking holidays, El Hierro experienced a rather dramatic earthquake about 50,000 years ago which resulted in the northern third of the island being literally ripped off. What you see today is the sublime remains of El Golfo bay with it's rocky volcanic coastline (best viewed from the Manrique Mirador up at Peno). To the east is El Pinar and the magical Canary pine forests (tragically they get the odd fire here - so for goodness sake use common sense and don't go throwing cigarettes out of car windows - one of the biggest causes of fires across the Canaries!) Just south of El Hierro's little airport on the north east coast is the port of La Estaca and further south the pretty village of Timijiraque with it's nice natural black sand cove beach. The Roque de La Bonanza at Las Playas and Mirador Isora in this area are also must sees.
The dramatic and sublime landscapes of El Hierro include several pine forests with giant beech and Canary Junipers too - the Juniper forest on El Hierro is the only one on the Canary Islands archipelago! Evidence of volcanic activity is everywhere on El Hierro (although there hasn't been an eruption here for 200 years). There are about 1000 volcanic crators and you'll see plenty of Lajiales or lava fields on El Hierro, especially to the west on the Sabinosa coast. All of El Hierro is aUnesco protected biosphere reserve, with much work afoot particularly at the marine reserve in the Mar de las Calmas, the stunning El Pinar pine forest in the interior and the ancient juniper trees at El Sabinar.
Valverde is most definitely the most laid back and compact of all the Canary Islands capitals. It's a pretty town, with some delightful local bars, restaurants and a little cinema. The church of La Concepcion is the centrepiece and sits opposite the town hall. Amenities such as cashpoints and banks are all here. Driving around El Hierro isn't demanding, the island only covers an area of 269 Sq km. However the interior does contain some pretty mountainous terrain, and like the interiors of La Palma and La Gomera, you get the mist up here so don't be suprised if you have to adjust planned routes because of it.
The mountainous terrain in parts means it's difficult to tour this small Canary Island in one day. Highlights on El Hierro include the spectacular Golfo Valley, best viewed from the Miradors of La Pena and Jinama. Roques de Salmor jutts out from El Golfo Bay, and here in recent years was discovered a prehistoric Lizard which was thought to be extinct. There's a recovery centre near the Roques. The volcanic badlands push west towards the quiet village of El Sabinar and the church of Nuestra Senora de Los Reyes (it's a climb to reach this by car, but a stunning drive not to be missed!) The south of El Hierro is less wild, with the odd dormant volcanic cone remains and the sleepy fishing village of La Restinga (diving is good here!).
If you're flying into El Hierro, good news - there's an excellent tourist information centre at the airport with comprehensive maps and walking guides available in several languages. The local government on El Hierro have worked hard in recent years to restore and retrace the traditional trails and tracks. This has helped build El Hierro's reputation as a spectacular island for walking holidaysl
The choice of trails includes the Camina de la Virgen - this path joings the Camino de la Virgen (La Dehesa to Valverde) with the old traditional trails of Tamaduste and Puerto Estaca with Valverde to the East and La Dehesa Embarcadero de Orchilla to the west.
Along with many of the Northern trails and tracks the Camino del Golfo or Camino del Monte which runs down from the north to the Valle de El Golfo was used in the past by goathers. Another good trail is the Camino de El Pinar - Vereda del Risco - Camino de las Playas which starts at the village of Isora and passes down to Las Playas, taking in the some of the pine forest and Mirador Isora (spectacular views up here!).
There are numerous other trails criss-crossing the island of El Hierro! Get ya walking boots on and head out!
The original settlers on El Hierro - the Bimbaches referred to it as hero which meant milk! El Hierro was ruled over by one king - Armiche prior to Spanish invasion. When Bethencourt landed on El Hierro he had Augeron, the king Armiche's brother with him (he'd been captured in previous years and acted as interpreter). The story is much the same as that of Tanausu on La Palma. Armiche was assured by Bethencourt that he came in peace, but it didn't take long for Bethencourt to take Armiche prisoner and to divide the land on El Hierro amongst around 20 colonists, whilst enslaving the Bimbaches.
Today El Hierro's economy is based on fishing, fruit growing, cheese making, some livestock and tourism (albeit low key tourism!).
The Guinea settlement in Frontera is a must visit on El Hierro, and a chance to view up close the prehistoric El Hierro giant lizard found to have survived on the Roque Salmor. The Lagartario recouperation centre for the giant lizard is adacent to the Guinea Settlement and viewing is part of the guided tour!
The Guinea settlement was originally occupied by the Bimbaches - the ancient original native settlers on El Hierro. They lived in volcanic tubes called Juaclos prior to Spanish colonialism. Considerable archaeological material has been uncovered - you can still view shells scattered about the settlement from this original period!
The colonizers however moved to the surface and built houses around the juaclos which they used as warehouses or to house animals in. In many ways viewing the volcanic tubes is a highlight to touring this settlement - some of the rest is a bit twee and reconstructed. There was no fixed population here at Guinea, one of the oldest settlements on El Hierro. Inhabitants travelled here from villages in the north of the island in the winter months to feed their animas on pasture land. They used the Camino Real de la Virgen trail track to get here (you could also arrive in the same way as the Camino trails have now been restored!)
Ecomuseo de Guinea & Centro de Recuperacion del Lagarto Gigante de El Hierro, Carretera Gral de las Puntas s/n Fronter. Tel: 922 55 5056. Check the weblinks right for more details.
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