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La Gomera's recent history, through the 19th and first half of the 20th century, is largely one of isolation. It wasn't until the 1950s that San Sebastian's harbour was developed to accommodate visiting vessels, and even more recently that rural tourism has taken off here. Today tourism is the major money earner for La Gomera, but so far it's focus is very much on ecotourism - largely rural accommodation, conservation and accessibility of Garajonay National Park and the promotion of walking and outdoor activity based holidays in mostly the interior of the island. Garajonay is currently a UNESCO protected area, and conservation projects, for example breeding in captivity of the Giant Gomera lizard in the Valle Gran Rey are bearing fruit.
Moving way back to the pre-hispanic period, the history of the original Gomeros settlers is beginning to emerge. The Juego de Bolas Visitor Centre near Las Rosas in the north of La Gomera has excellent exhibits and information on the Gomeros way of life. Of all the Canary Islands, resistance to Spanish colonialism was particularly strong on La Gomera. Initially they only half conquered the island, and indeed Bethancourt gave up for a time. The terrain, mountainous and covered in jungle like vegetation, favoured the original settlers. Christopher Columbus is everywhere in San Sebastian. He stopped here on La Gomera a few times before heading off to the Americas, and San Sebastian makes the most of his visit! Explore the history of ups and downs in agriculture on La Gomera at the Ethnological Museum in Hermigua.
The Spanish conquest of La Gomera is referred to as partial - the reason being only really half of the island was initially colonised in the early 15th century. When Bethancourt first arrived on La Gomera it was divided into four kingdoms called Agana ruled by Alguabozegue), Hipalan (ruled by Alhagal), Mulagua (ruled by Aberbequeye) and Orone (ruled by Masegue). Agana and Hipalan conceded straight away, but Mulagua and Orone put up such strong resistance that Bethancourt and his nephew Maciot just couldn't conquer them. The Gomeras, alongside Guanches on Tenerife, put up one of the bravest and toughest fights against Spanish colonialism, and it wasn't until around 80 years after Bethancourt first landed on the island that the Guanches here peacefully conceded. Knowing well the mountainous terrain on La Gomera no doubt worked to the Guanche's favour.
San Sebastian was developed by the colonialists as the major port on the island, as it remains today. In 1488 there was a grusome massacre at San Sebastian (known to the Guanches as Hipalan) during their uprising against Hernan Peraza. San Sebastian developed a rather famous reputation due largely to Christopher Columbus' landing here in 1492 on-route to the Americas. La Gomera is often referred to as 'Columbus Island'. He stayed for a while and a number of buildings and sights are linked to Christopher Columbus' stay in San Sebastian! After Columbus has visited, San Sebastian become a favoured stopping off point for transatlantic trade - it's naturally formed harbour is one of the best on the Canaries.
La Gomera has remained pretty isolated until recent years - so many of it's cultural traditions have survived to this day. One of the most well known (and still used) is the Gomeran whistling language - used as an ingenious way to communicate on this remote island! La Gomera's Canarian food follows largely along the lines of the rest of the Canaries, but there are various unique dishes to this island including Watercress Soup, palm honey and Almogrote - a cheese and olive dip.
San Sebastian, as it prospered as a port, was subject to numerous pirate attacks - an English fleet tried it's luck in 1739 but was beaten back! Until recently La Gomera, compared to other Canary Islands, has drawn less of it's income from tourism. It's seen consistent hardships through the last couple of centuries with booms and busts relating to the collapse of the cochineal boom and other agricultural crops, resulting in many leaving the island. Today the population of La Gomera is around 17,000 and most economic activity is based around tourism. The agriculture that remains is largely bananas for export, and vegetables mostly for home consumption. Note the terraces that cover the hilsides - it's pretty mountainous on La Gomera so the level space created for agriculture by these terraces was much needed. Backbreaking work it must have been indeed!
San Sebastian, situated on the south east side of La Gomera, is the island's capital and major port of entry (via the Los Cristianos ferry from Tenerife, amongst other ferry trips). There's plenty of space in San Sebastian's harbour for pleasure craft too. It's a laid back, work-a-day Canarian town, with a bustling plaza near the port (Plaza Las Americas/some nice open air bars here!), a perfectly pleasant beach - Playa de San Sebastian, some rather nice specialist shops (particularly for shoes) and various superb bodega styled restaurants and chic bars. San Sebastian also via the TF711.
The main focus in San Sebastian however is good old Christopher Columbus and there's an obligatory Christopher Columbus trail around the town! Notable Columbus linked buildings include the Casa de la Agunada on Calle Real. It's also known as Casa Condal and has served as a cutom house and a residence. Inside is both the tourist office and an exhbiition - 'La Gomera and the Discovery of America'. Columbus is supposed to have taken water from the well situated in the central patio. Moving up Calle Real is Iglesia de la Virgen de las Suncion where Columbus and his entourage are supposed to have prayed before taking off to the new world! (it's not the original chapel however, which was obliterated in a far - this one dates from the 18th century). The older church - Ermita de San Sebastian nearby is older, dating from 1540.
Columbus is supposed to have resided in the Casa de Colon during his stays on La Gomera, and it's open to the public (from 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am to 1pm on Sat). There's a collection of ceramics dating before Columbus' period from Peru and elsewhere in the Americas. The most renowned historical building in San Sebastian is certainly the Torre del Conde tower situated in the Parque La Torre del Conde just inland from the beach. This most important Canary Islands military building dates from 1447 and it's the retreat where Beatriz de Bobadilla, the wife of terranical Hernan Peraza (La Gomera's governor remembered for his cruel treatment of the Gomeros) barricaded herself in during the 1488 battle between the Gomeros and Spanish colonialists. The preservation of the Torre del Conde tower in pretty much it's original state makes it particularly interesting.
Columbus, by the way, was rather fond of Beatriz de Bodadilla and his various trips back to San Sebastian are connected no doubt to this attraction. After hearing of her marriage howevever he never returned to La Gomera (see the La Gomera weblinks to the right for more details).
Moving up to the north of La Gomera from San Sebastian, you'll arrive at pretty Hermigua situated in the bottom of an agricultural valley - mainly bananas, vines and vegetables. It's a pretty place to stop indeed, with a selection of excellent Gomeran restaurants, and the 15th century Church of Incarnation and the Virgilio Brito Museum of Ethnography. El Cedro country house in the village is also worth a look. Note the terraced agriculture here too.
Hermigua, alongside Agulo sits within the ancient Gomeran region of Mulagua. Post conquest, the area soon established it's reputation for cultivation, particularly sugar cane. The population first settled in the higher valley, later moving down to the base.
Museo Molino de Gofio, Ctra. General s/n, 38820 - Hermigua, La Gomera, Islas Canarias. Tel: +34 922 880 781. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 5pm, Sundays from 10am to 2pm. Learn all about La Gomera's agricultural history here, with a focus on the Hermigua area, with traditional working banana plantation on-site, plus papayas, mangos, sugar cane and advocado trees.
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