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La Gomera, is round, even, beautiful and, of all the islands it is the most agreeable to the eye, because, in addition to its benign and happy sky, it is full of rolling hills, valleys cad with thick jungles, which enjoying an eternal summer, never lose their leaves"". (Leonardo Torriani, 16th Century). It's hard to believe, as you tour La Gomera including the magical UNESCO protected Garajonay National Park in the centre of this almost round Canary Island, that you are so close to Africa here - La Gomera is green! Torriani described what he saw on La Gomera in the 16th century as a 'jungle'. Fortunately the ancient laurisilva forests have been preserved (albeit a good chunk of them), and the now protected Garajonay National Park is a walker's paradise, highly accessible with numerous marked trails taking you through Laurisilva and numerous other flora unique to the Canary Islands.
La Gomera's volcanic history is ancient - it's dormant now and has been for some time. The dramatic ravines and eroded mountains, due to the lack of recent volcanic history have been moulded by erosion creating great dramatic landscapes. It's a different world here to the bustling and pumping resorts of South Tenerife and to the south of Gran Canaria. Calling all walking lovers, birdwatchers, nature lovers (come view the celebrated pine and laurisilva forests of Garajonay) and those interested in ancient Canaries history - stories of the Guanches abound here - original settlers in La Gomera put up one of the toughest fights of all the Canary Islands against the Spanish colonialists.
Unlike most of the other Canary Islands (except El Hierro), La Gomera's focus for visitors is not to be found on the coast - which is mostly rocky - but in the centre of the island in the Garajonay National Park. Conditions on La Gomera, one of the smallest Canary Islands situated west of Tenerife, are perfect for the Laurisilva which need year round subtropical conditions with mild temperatures and high humidity. You'll find Laurisilva forests elsewhere in the Atlantic on some of the other Canary Islands, and on the Azores and Madeira.
The story of the laurisilva forests in these regions is a familiar one - after the arrival of the Europeans from the 15th century they were considerably eroded by ongoing development. Garajonay on La Gomeera remains the largest and best preserved representation of an ancient eco-system. Half of all the Laurisilva forests on the Canaries are here in La Gomera.
There's a variety of landscapes today in contemporary La Gomera, which covers only 376 km squared. La Gomera is essentially an ancient massif, and the mix of spewed up during it's volcanic formation means that the different rocks have eroded at different rates - hence the selection of Roques (harder rock resistant to erosion) scattered around the island. There's been no volcanic activity on La Gomera for 2 million years, over which period what you see today, including canyons, hillocks, cliffs, crsts, jungles, laurisilva forests, marks of settlement including terrace cultivation (hardwork this) on the hillsides. Bear in mind mountainous though, so don't be thinking that driving around the island is quick and easy - some hard work is needed on constantly winding and ascending roads!
The main settlement areas, and bases for visitors on La Gomera include San Sebastian (the capital and La Gomera's main port) to the south east, the Valle Gran Rey area to the west and Playa Santiago near the only golf course on the island and La Gomera's small airport. It's easy to take a daytrip to La Gomera via the fast ferry which departs from Los Cristianos harbour five times daily and the other way from San Sebastian to Los Cristianos 5 times daily. The boat trip is a mere 40 minutes. It's easy then to split your holiday with a week on Tenerife, and another on La Gomera. Binter Canarias flights arrive on La Gomera daily coming from both Tenerife North Airport, and Gran Canaria's Las Palmas Airport.
The Spanish conquest of La Gomera is referred to as partial - the reason being only really half of the island was initially colonised in the early 15th century. When Bethancourt first arrived on La Gomera it was divided into four kingdoms called Agana ruled by Alguabozegue), Hipalan (ruled by Alhagal), Mulagua (ruled by Aberbequeye) and Orone (ruled by Masegue). Agana and Hipalan conceded straight away, but Mulagua and Orone put up such strong resistance that Bethancourt and his nephew Maciot just couldn't conquer them. The Gomeras, alongside Guanches on Tenerife, put up one of the bravest and toughest fights against Spanish colonialism, and it wasn't until around 80 years after Bethancourt first landed on the island that the Guanches here peacefully conceded. Knowing well the mountainous terrain on La Gomera no doubt worked to the Guanche's favour.
San Sebastian was developed by the colonialists as the major port on the island, as it remains today. In 1488 there was a grusome massacre at San Sebastian (known to the Guanches as Hipalan) during their uprising against Hernan Peraza. San Sebastian developed a rather famous reputation due largely to Christopher Columbus' landing here in 1492 on-route to the Americas. La Gomera is often referred to as 'Columbus Island'. He stayed for a while and a number of buildings and sights are linked to Christopher Columbus' stay in San Sebastian! After Columbus has visited, San Sebastian become a favoured stopping off point for transatlantic trade - it's naturally formed harbour is one of the best on the Canaries.
La Gomera has remained pretty isolated until recent years - so many of it's cultural traditions have survived to this day. One of the most well known (and still used) is the Gomeran whistling language - used as an ingenious way to communicate on this remote island! La Gomera's Canarian food follows largely along the lines of the rest of the Canaries, but there are various unique dishes to this island including Watercress Soup, palm honey and Almogrote - a cheese and olive dip.
San Sebastian, as it prospered as a port, was subject to numerous pirate attacks - an English fleet tried it's luck in 1739 but was beaten back! Until recently La Gomera, compared to other Canary Islands, has drawn less of it's income from tourism. It's seen consistent hardships through the last couple of centuries with booms and busts relating to the collapse of the cochineal boom and other agricultural crops, resulting in many leaving the island. Today the population of La Gomera is around 17,000 and most economic activity is based around tourism. The agriculture that remains is largely bananas for export, and vegetables mostly for home consumption. Note the terraces that cover the hilsides - it's pretty mountainous on La Gomera so the level space created for agriculture by these terraces was much needed. Backbreaking work it must have been indeed!
Garajonay National Park, situated in the centre of La Gomera, was declared a National Park in 1981 and covers 373km square of the island. The park covers the higher peaks of La Gomera (including the highest peak Alto de Garajonay which rises to 1487m) and contains a number of unique species of flaura and fauna - hence it's declared status as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986. Much of the area of Garajonay is covered with evergreen forest. There's been no volcanic activity on La Gomera for 2 million years, and this fact combined with the humid conditions created by the trade winds from the north, and subtropical temperatures due to the islands latitude, what you have is a mix of numerous eroded ravines, dramatic rock formations and volcanic domes called Roques, as well as the renowned ancient Laurisilva forests. Garajonay National Park is one of the top natural splendors across the Canaries, and there's almost a permanent humid mist clinging to the higher peaks in the park.
Frost rarely creeps into the park, except occasionally on the higher peaks, and the mist plays an important part in the preservation of the ecosystem here - it reduces evaporation loss whilst simultaneously leaving much need water on vegetation. The laurel forests, otherwise known as greenwood or monteverde, represent what is left of the typical flora which covered the Mediterranean millions of years ago. The greenwood forests on La Gomera provide for most of it's water supply today.
The mix of flora you can expect to see at Garajonay include Loro (Laurus azorica), Til (Ocotea foetens), Indian avocado, wax myrtle, Palo blanco (Picconia excelsa), Mahogany laurel, heather and Acebino (Ilex canariensis). On the fauna side watch out for the laurel pigeon (you'll hear them!), Bolle's laurel pigeon, Barbastelle bat, Euruasian woodcock, the canary, common skink and the Gomera lizard (Gallotia caesaris). A good starting point for exploring Garajonay is the a visit to the Juego de Bolas Visitors centre near Las Rosas in the North. It takes some effort to get to it, as it's situated high up and just outside the park, but it's well worth the effort as there's comprehensive information here on the history of the park, plus you can pick up walking maps and the superb Garajonay National Park Visitors guide book for under 10 euros. Overall Garajonay is very accessible to visitors, with clearly marked footpaths and trails, most of which were used by the ancient Gomeros. The climb upto Alto de Garajonay is one of the favourites, as are various walks branching out from La Laguna Grande.
Parque Nacional de Garajonay, Juego de Bolas Visitor Centre, La Palmita-Agulo, 38830, La Gomera. Tel: 922 80 09 93. (Guided Excursions organised every Saturday, departing from La Laguna Grande). Garajonay Park Offices, Ctra. General del Sur, 6, Apdo de Correos 92, 38800 San Sebastian de la Gomera, Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Tel: 922 87 01 05.
San Sebastian, situated on the south east side of La Gomera, is the island's capital and major port of entry (via the Los Cristianos ferry from Tenerife, amongst other ferry trips). There's plenty of space in San Sebastian's harbour for pleasure craft too. It's a laid back, work-a-day Canarian town, with a bustling plaza near the port (Plaza Las Americas/some nice open air bars here!), a perfectly pleasant beach - Playa de San Sebastian, some rather nice specialist shops (particularly for shoes) and various superb bodega styled restaurants and chic bars. San Sebastian also via the TF711.
The main focus in San Sebastian however is good old Christopher Columbus and there's an obligatory Christopher Columbus trail around the town! Notable Columbus linked buildings include the Casa de la Agunada on Calle Real. It's also known as Casa Condal and has served as a cutom house and a residence. Inside is both the tourist office and an exhbiition - 'La Gomera and the Discovery of America'. Columbus is supposed to have taken water from the well situated in the central patio. Moving up Calle Real is Iglesia de la Virgen de las Suncion where Columbus and his entourage are supposed to have prayed before taking off to the new world! (it's not the original chapel however, which was obliterated in a far - this one dates from the 18th century). The older church - Ermita de San Sebastian nearby is older, dating from 1540.
Columbus is supposed to have resided in the Casa de Colon during his stays on La Gomera, and it's open to the public (from 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am to 1pm on Sat). There's a collection of ceramics dating before Columbus' period from Peru and elsewhere in the Americas. The most renowned historical building in San Sebastian is certainly the Torre del Conde tower situated in the Parque La Torre del Conde just inland from the beach. This most important Canary Islands military building dates from 1447 and it's the retreat where Beatriz de Bobadilla, the wife of terranical Hernan Peraza (La Gomera's governor remembered for his cruel treatment of the Gomeros) barricaded herself in during the 1488 battle between the Gomeros and Spanish colonialists. The preservation of the Torre del Conde tower in pretty much it's original state makes it particularly interesting.
Columbus, by the way, was rather fond of Beatriz de Bodadilla and his various trips back to San Sebastian are connected no doubt to this attraction. After hearing of her marriage howevever he never returned to La Gomera (see the La Gomera weblinks to the right for more details). San Sebastian has some lively festivals. Visit on the 20th January and you'll collide with the town's patron saint celebrations which usually culminate on the beach - Fiesta de San Sebastian. Columbus features in various celebrations. On 6th September the Fiestas Columbinas runs over a week, consisting of various street parties, events and live music celebrating Columbus' first voyage. El Dia de San Juan held on 23 June with numerous bonfires celebrates the summer solstice and every 5 years on 5th October the Bajada de la Virgen de Guadelupe (to be held next in 2008) its a big affair involving a procession of the Virgin Mary around the capital, supported by decorated fishing boats and more. Book accommodation well ahead for this event if you're planning to attend.
Moving up to the north of La Gomera from San Sebastian, you'll arrive at pretty Hermigua situated in the bottom of an agricultural valley - mainly bananas, vines and vegetables. It's a pretty place to stop indeed, with a selection of excellent Gomeran restaurants, and the 15th century Church of Incarnation and the Virgilio Brito Museum of Ethnography. El Cedro country house in the village is also worth a look. Note the terraced agriculture here too.
Hermigua, alongside Agulo sits within the ancient Gomeran region of Mulagua. Post conquest, the area soon established it's reputation for cultivation, particularly sugar cane. The population first settled in the higher valley, later moving down to the base.
Museo Molino de Gofio, Ctra. General s/n, 38820 - Hermigua, La Gomera, Islas Canarias. Tel: +34 922 880 781. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 5pm, Sundays from 10am to 2pm. Learn all about La Gomera's agricultural history here, with a focus on the Hermigua area, with traditional working banana plantation on-site, plus papayas, mangos, sugar cane and advocado trees.
Heading further north on La Gomera your next stop is Agulo. Some of the best views across to Tenerife and El Teide are visible from here - there's the odd viewing point for pulling over just outside Agulo with views across Playa de Agulo and across to Teide.
Agulo is one of the smallest regions on La Gomera - if you're looking for a real walking retreat on La Gomera, Agulo is a good option. It's a small village, but a pretty one with examples of Gomeran architecture.
From Agulo the main road then twists and turns towards Vallehermo situated in the old Gomeran province of Agana. It's a bigger town (there's a petrol station here!) and an excellent La Gomera walking base bordering the Garajonay National Park. Like Hermigua, the economic base here is agriculture and you'll see again the cultivated terraces climbing up the steep hillsides.
There's a good selection of accommodation here, plus a bustling Plaza in the centre and a selectiion of bar restaurants. It's the main town in the borough, which also includes a large chunk of Garajonay, plus towards the coast the natural monument of Los Organos - a dramatic cliffscape of volcanic rock shaped into organ like tubes which plunge into the sea. Los Organos is actually best viewed from the sea, and regular boat trips run from Valle Gran Rey and Playa Santiago in the west and south of La Gomera.
Valle Gran Rey (Valley of the Great King) is one of the most popular bases on La Gomera and sits with the pre-hispanic Gomeros territory of Orone. It's one of the most beautiful spots on the island, popular particularly with German visitors. The town sits at the bottom of a steep ravine, essentially split into various parts with La Calera in the higher region and La Playa and Vueltas on the waterfront. Beaches here are pretty much the best on the island, but it's walking and hiking that are the real attraction, moving from the town up through the Barranco de Gran Rey and into Garajonay. Numerous hiking tour companies organise guided walks from Valle Gran Rey (see weblinks right for details).
Agriculture remains strong here with a mix of potatoes and vegetables and palm honey is big here too. The area is also renowned for it's many palm trees, forming a unique feature on the landscape. Tourism though is the main player here now. Take boat trips from the waterfront at Puerto de Vueltas to Los Organos and around the island iva the Garajonay Express which departs daily from Valle Gran Rey at 6.35am, 10.45am and 5.10pm, stopping at Playa Santiago and San Sebastian.
Cesar Manrique has made his mark in this area of La Gomera too. Checkout the viewing point as you descend into Valle Gran Rey at Arure. Idyllic panoramic views can be seen from Mirador Cesar Manrique with the Bodega Vino Tino situated nearby selling Gomeran wines, cheeps and sauces. Also in Valle Gran Rey is a Giant Lizard conservation centre, where the La Gomera lizard is bred in captivity and beginning to bear some fruits - the species has been endangered. In fact until 1999 it was thought to have disappeared altogether, until a living speciies was discovered on the Clif of La Merica in Valle Gran Rey. It relies on donations and some funding from outside bodies. For more information contact The Environmental Unit, La Gomera Cabildo Insular on Tel: 922 870 552, or the Recovery Centre at Valle Gran Rey on Tel: 922 807 019.
Valle Gran Rey Tourist Information Office, Calle Lepanto, La Playa, La Gomera. Tel: 922 80 54 58. Plenty of information in here on the various activities available from the area including boat trips, walking tours and hiking, horse riding and more.
Patronato Insular de Turismo de la Gomera, Calle Real, 4, San Sebastian de la Gomera. Tel: 922 141 512 or 922 870 281.
Oficina de Turismo de Valle Gran Rey, Calle Lepanto, s/n. La Playa, Valle Gran Rey, La Gomera. Tel: 922 805 458.
Oficina de Turismo de Playa de Santiago, Ed. Las Vistas, Local 8, Avda. Maritimo, s/n, Playa de Santiago, La Gomera. Tel: 922 895 650.
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