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The mix of landscapes across the Canary Islands is simply breathtaking, and the contrasts of for example Gran Canaria's rugged and green interior to its developed southern resorts of Playa del Ingles and Maspalomas is a little mindboggling to say the least. What you might not know is that there are 145 protected nature reserves across the Canary Islands archipelago which cover about 40 percent of their total land mass. That's rather a lot of green space, and in recent years (with increasing effort from local Canarios governments) ecotourism and rural areas on the islands are becoming more accessible (Garajonay National Park on La Gomera is particularly accessible).
The most well known national parks on the Canary Islands (and Spain's most popular) is of course El Teide and Teide National Park on Tenerife. The interiors of Tenerife, Gran Canaria, La Gomera, La Palma and El Hierro are mostly green with the distinctive ancient laurisilva and pine forests. Lanzarote and Fuerteventura to the far east are more characterised by desertlike luna landscapes. La Palma incidently is the steepest island in the world in relation to its height and overall area. You're in for some mountainous driving here! If you hadn't thought of taking a walking holiday in the Canaries then think again.
Established as a National Park in 1974 to protect the beauty of this fascinating volcanic landscape, Timanfaya should be on every Lanzarote holidaymaker's list! The park's permiter stretches 30km and consists of an area of 51 km, and the park is extremely accessible to visitors, either by hire car or a highly recommended Grand Tour excursion taking in Timanfaya. Grand Tour excursions by coach to Timanfaya are definitely a good idea in the peak summer season as Timanfaya gets pretty crowded and the organised coach tours get preferential treatment, including jumping the queue at the entrance past the hire cars and taking the Ruta de los Volcanes starting at Islote de Hilario on your own coach rather than the organised yellow ones! meaning you can get up close to Lanzarote's Montanas del Fuego (Mountains of Fire).
Expect to be wowed by a luna like landscape with dramatic volcanic cones, extensive remains of lava flow or Malpais (bad lands) and little evidence of plant or wildlife here, except a few struggling and hardy lichens, the Timanfaya seed endemic to Lanzarote and the park and just a few other species of hardy flora. Likewise on fauna you're only likely to see terrestrial vertebrates at Timanfaya including the Atlantic Lizard and Canary Island Wall Gecko. Birds you may spot include Egyptian Vultures, Cory's Shearwater and the Rock Dove. It's well worth visiting the Mancha Blanca Visitors Centre prior to entering the park for comprehensive information in all languages on how the park was formed and more detailed information on flora and fauna you're likely to see.
Gran Canaria's mountainous interior is a stark contrast to the southern resorts of Maspalomas, Playa del Ingles and over on the south west side - Puerto Rico. Stunning, wild and particularly green in parts covered with pine forests, Gran Canaria's interior offers some of the most beautiful scenery and walking territory in the Canaries - who would have thought! Walking and trekking holidays all year round in Gran Canaria are a real option, with some stunning historic towns and villages to visit or stay in around the interior including Teror, Arucus, Moya, Artenara, Tejeda, San Bartolome de Tirajana and Santa Lucia.
In recent years the Cabildo (local government) of Gran Canaria has been working hard to encourage more rural tourism to Gran Canaria, primarily by investing money into original settler sights such as the caves at Galdar, and opening up ancient walking paths, the Caminos Reales or royal paths - good news for walkers. The central focal point for walkers on Gran Canaria tends to be Cruz de Tejeda located near some of Gran Canaria's highest points, including Pico or Pozo de las Nieves which stretches upto 1949m/6395feet and is Gran Canaria's highest point.
Touring the interior landscapes of Fuerteventura makes for some of the most pleasurable driving in the Canaries (if you've a hire car - alternatively take one of the Grand Tours of the island which weave their way through the interior. Many visitors enjoy a grand tour, coming over first on the boat from Lanzarote!). Car hire on Fuerteventura is highly recommended, so you can really take your time to explore the beauty of this desert island's interior. There's a good choice of museums on Fuerteventura focusing on agricultural history, religious history and the Guanche pre-hispanic settlers including the Archeological and Ethnographic Museum, Scaro Art Gallery and Craft centre in Betancuria, the Antigua Windmill Craftwork centre, the Grain Museum and Canarian Art Centre in La Oliva, and the Unamuno Museum in the capital Puerto del Rosario.
Mostly pretty arid, but with some variation - to the south is the Palm tree laden ravine - Vega del Rio de Palmas. You'll note in the centre many of what still remains an iconic feature of Fuerteventura - a scattering of windmills, most of which today are not in use and some of which date back a couple of centuries. Settlements in the interior which are particularly popular include historic Betancuria - Jean de Bethencourt (leader of the Spanish invasion of Fuerteventura) set up camp here in 1405 - the spot was well served by water and a strategic defensive position against Guanche attack. With the usual pomp and circumstance of colonists, Bethencourt named it after himself - but as you can see its been twisted to Betancuria since. Betancuria was the island's capital for a spell.
Franciscan monks set up shop here too, and you can see the monastery still as you approach Betancuria from the north. Other sites in this historic location include the attractive Iglesia de Santa Maria dating from the 17th century, a Museo de Arte Sacro containing various examples of religious art, and the Casa Museo de Betancuria which is well worth a look particularly for its small collection of Guanche artefacts. There's some fantastic arts and crafts shops in Betancuria too - especially for ceramics! A few great Bodegas too! There's a festival here - Dia de San Buenaventura every 14th July.
Other interior hotspots in the centre include historic Pajara, with its 17th century Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Regla, and to the north pretty La Oliva, also once the capital of the island. The Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria (covered in scaffolding at the time of our visit!) is usually the focal point of this pretty town with its notable Ecomuseum which explores the tough rural history of the island.
If there's one image that casts its influence across all the Canary Islands it's El Teide. Indeed, some of the best views are to be had of Teide from the other islands, particularly from a-top of the Garajonay National Park in Tenerife's closest neighbour island - La Gomera. Teide National Park, slap bang in the centre of Tenerife covers a huge area of 18,990 hectares. Spain's highest peak - Mount Teide (3718m) is here, but it's not Spain's largest national park, however it's certainly the most popular with huge numbers of holidaymakers visiting the park every year (about 4 million). Teide has been a national park, and duly protected, since January 1954. Expect to see plenty of Teide white broom with its white blossom in spring, Teide violets and scoria and pumice on higher altitudes. On the fauna side Kestrels, Barbary Partridge and Canary Lizards can all be seen here, amongst other species.
Not as starkly barren and devoid of vegetation as Lanzarote's Timanfaya National Park, the volcanic landscape you'll see here in Teide National Park and elsewhere on the Canaries is the result of basaltic magma eruptions (basaltic magma is renowned for less violent eruptions which flow for long distances), as opposed to trachytic magma which is more viscous than basaltic and can build up in volcanic crators and explode violently. As you discover more information on volcanic history in the Canaries, you realise that during volcanic episodes people generally had time to escape - they had time because the lava flow was basaltic and slow rather than violently eruptive! Teide's high altitude means that it's usually covered in snow in winter, and it's more arid here as it's well above the influence of the moist trade winds.
The Guanches called Teide 'El Cheide', and all that survives of their testament to Tenerife eruptions is a few myths and legends, although the legend of El Teide swallowing the sun as a result of Guyota the devil who lived inside the volcano and grabbed it fits in with a possible eruption of Teide in the 13th Century. This Middle Ages eruption lasted several decades, during which black lava was thrown up and Teide grew to its present height with a more peaked crater. Previously (recorded in Roman times) the crater had been more rounded. The Guanches would certainly have known of more eruptions across the Canaries. Tenerife post-hispanic history records point to the eruption of 1704 to 1705 which was a fissure eruption with lava erupting from Siete Fuentes, Fasnia and Montana de Las Arenas.
Later the Garachico eruption is dated 1706. Montana Negra erupted on 5th May that year just south of the town. The eruption lasted 9 days and destroyed the town. Other eruptions include the Chahorra eruption of 1798 and the Chinyero eruption of 1909 which lasted 10 days, reducing the original 9 mouths of this volcano to just 3 big ones! Teide's crator is 80m across, and it's still active with rumblings in the summit crater. It's the island of La Palma that lays claim to the most recent Canary Islands eruption in 1971. An unusual rock feature, popular with film makers, in the park are El Roque Cinchado - a stunning example of the dramatic rock formations resulting from the erosion of volcanic rock. (Charlton Heston leaned on one in the film 'The 10 Commandments').
Start at the Juego de Bolas Visitor Centre in the north of La Gomera, and find out more about the legend of Gara and Jonay, the volcanic history of La Gomera and the Canaries, and pick up a copy of the superb Visitors Guide to Garajonay National Park and walking holidays on La Gomera. It's a walker's paradise here and Garajonay is one of the most accessible National Parks on the Canaries and beyond.
Garajonay National Park, situated in the centre of La Gomera, was declared a National Park in 1981 and covers 373km square of the island. The park covers the higher peaks of La Gomera (including the highest peak Alto de Garajonay which rises to 1487m) and contains a number of unique species of flaura and fauna - hence its declared status as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986. Much of the area of Garajonay is covered with evergreen forest. There's been no volcanic activity on La Gomera for 2 million years, and this fact combined with the humid conditions created by the trade winds from the north, and subtropical temperatures due to the islands latitude, what you have is a mix of numerous eroded ravines, dramatic rock formations and volcanic domes called Roques, as well as the renowned ancient Laurisilva forests. Garajonay National Park is one of the top natural splendors across the Canaries, and there's almost a permanent humid mist clinging to the higher peaks in the park.
Frost rarely creeps into the park, except occasionally on the higher peaks, and the mist plays an important part in the preservation of the ecosystem here - it reduces evaporation loss whilst simultaneously leaving much needed water on vegetation. The laurel forests, otherwise known as greenwood or monteverde, represent what is left of the typical flora which covered the Mediterranean millions of years ago. The greenwood forests on La Gomera provide for most of it's water supply today.
Overall Garajonay is very accessible to visitors, with clearly marked footpaths and trails, most of which were used by the ancient Gomeros. The climb upto Alto de Garajonay is one of the favourites, as are various walks branching out from La Laguna Grande.
Not by chance has La Palma, the greenest of all the Canary Island, been nicknamed the Pretty Island. Shaped like a triangle, and the most north-westerly of the Canary Islands archipelago, in the northern interior is the Caldera de Taburiente National Park. Essentially this is an enormous crater or landslide, and outside of the crater is an abundance of 2 million year old Laurel pine forests and plummeting waterfalls. La Palma has no shortage of natural water supply - there are numerous springs in the park. Uneven erosion has been going on here for thousands of years, to great effect. The heights of the crater or caldera are dotted with crests known as Roques - there's diverse volcanic material here and the Roques jutting upwards have eroded at a slower pace. The heart of the Caldera is the Barranco de Las Angustias (Gorge of Fear), which is a semi-circular ravine stretching 8km in diameter and 2000m from the base to the highest point.
Although the Caldera de Taburiente looks like a volcanic crator it's actually the result of landslide, also known as seamount. When Volcanic islands like La Palma form and emerge from the ocean they begin to sink again under their own weight - the Caldera de Taburiente is mass subsidence. Another particular feature of the Caldera de Taburiente is the huge number of well preserved archeological remains in the park. The original settlers were pastoral, and they used Neolithic tools. Called Benahoaries, they decorated their cave dwellings with intricate petroglyphs. Three routes lead into the Park. From the south, starting from the Visitor Centre there is a path to La Cumbrecita. Coming from the west side there is a path through Lomo de los Caballos to Barranco de las Angustias. A popular starting point is the camping area at Brecitos.
The El Paso visitor centre is clearly marked and situated on the LP 2 road midway between Santa Cruz de la Palma and Los Llanos de Aridane. The centre has excellent wheelchair access, and numerous exhibitions, audiovisual rooms, a botanic garden, and a book and video library. The other centre is the Taburiente Service Centre which sits in the heart of the park adjacent to the camping area. The park leaflet recommends the Cumbrecita to Lomo de las Chozas trail or the peak of Roque de Los Muchachos if you only have a few hours in the park. If you're planning a whole day they recommend the Brecitos Camping Area to the Barranco de Las Angustias trail. There are numerous trails across the park if your planing for a week's holiday! Visitors wishing to camp in the Brecitos camping area need to obtain a permit first from the adjacent visitor centre!
Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente, El Paso Visitor Centre and Park Offices, Ctra. General de Padron, 47, 38750 El Paso, La Palma. Tel: 922 49 72 77/922 49 74 00. This visitor centre is easy to get to from Los Cancajos and Puerto Naos, and makes a good starting point to exploring the park. Videos, exhibits, books, walking guides and more are all here! Open 9am to 2pm and 4pm to 6.30pm daily. The government published guidebook is certainly worth purchasing! There are excellent viewpoints on the LP1032 road adjacent to the Astrological centre which afford sublime panoramic views of Roque de los Muchachos.
El Hierro certainly is the 'wild west' of the Canaries - the sweeping ravines, volcanic badlands, interior pine forest and the breathtaking views of El Golfo bay from the Pena Mirador will amaze - you do indeed feel like you're at the end of the world, as once this spot was before Columbus discovered America across the mammoth Atlantic. Today El Hierro is a walkers paradise, with numerous old Camino trails across the island. It's the quietest of all the Canary Islands - there's not a huge amount of accommodation here (considered a blessing by many who come for the peace and tranquility of the island). Booking well in advance for both accommodation and car hire is highly recommended! Activities wise, you're looking at some of the best walking across the Canaries, plus a spot of fishing and swimming on naturally formed volcanic beaches and rock pools.
El Hierro is an island of immense mixes - pine forests to the south and interior, to the west volcanic badlands and a jagged coastline, and the views of El Golfo, where rocks soar upwards. Valverde, the only large town to speak of on El Hierro and the island's capital, sits to the north east near the airport. (one of three petrol stations on the island is in Valverde so fill up if you're picking up a car hire from the airport and then heading towards Frontera - the other two are in Frontera and La Restinga).