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Pre-Spanish colonialist invasion Telde was the eastern centre to the Guanches, and the renowned Guanche King Doramas, it's believed, lived here. Telde's name actually tells us something about where the original settlers on the Canary Islands came from. Telde, situated in a most fertile area of Gran Canaria, has it's equivalent province in Morrocco in a very fertile region called Tedlah. Early records point to about 14,000 Guanche dwellings here in Telde at the time of conquest, and Telde is the spot where the famous Idolo de Tara figure was discovered - you can see this in the Museo Canario in Las Palmas, just 12km north of Telde.
Not surprisingly, both Telde and Galdar - Guanche centres, developed pre-Spanish conquest as major towns. Colonialists have a habit of making their own mark on the centres of those who are colonised. Today Telde is Gran Canaria's second city after Las Palmas - with a population put well over 80,000. The historic old town area of Telde is particularly popular with visitors, or as a real Canarian base for holidaymakers looking to push into the National Park and up to the cultural North and Las Palmas.
The historic quarters of San Juan and San Francisco are the real attraction areas in Telde, and both this quarters are named after their respective historic churches. Wider Telde is quite heavily industrialised - indeed it's an industrial centre on the island.
Numerous attractions in Telde attract many on excursion tours or day trips in the Gran Canaria car hire. Starting with the churches, Iglesia San Juan Bautista is a stunning building dating from 1519. Two grey basalt towers frame the central white arch with Mudejar doorway - certainly a photographic gem. Inside there's a Flemish Retablo depicting Nativity scenes, as well as Gran Canaria's most prized alterpiece. You might struggle to visit inside however, as the church is often closed. Try Sundays before and after services. Another prized feature in the interior is the unusual crucifixion sculpture actually made in Mexico by Tarasco Indians - it's made of corn cobs and many believe the statue's face changes colour each season! No apparent evidence for this however!
Moving from Plaza San Juan, wander down the attractive Calle Ines Chanida in a westerly direction towards Iglesia de San Francisco which dates from the 18th century and is surrounded by interesting old merchant houses. The town hall, Casa del Conde de la Vega is also worth a look, renowned as the one time home of the count who originally developed the southern resorts of Gran Canaria.
There should be a Guanche Museum in Telde, but there isn't. The only museum here is Museo Leon y Castillo, Cale Leon y Castillo, 43. Tel: 0034 928 691 377 Open 8am to 2pm Mondays to Fridays - Free Entrance. The museum is the one time home of Juan Leon y Castillo, top toff in Gran Canaria who built Las Palmas' La Luz Harbour. The Museum displays artefacts all linked to Juan and his family, notably his brother who ended up as Foreign Minster of Spain.
Funding and investment into the various Guanche sites around Telde which are currently pretty neglected must be a struggle. In many parts of the island decline in the banana industry has brought high unemployment - not good news for local residents, when often the only alternative is some connection with the tourist industry.
One Guanche site in the area is well worth a visit - the Montana de las Cuatro Puertas, the Hill of the Four Gates or Doors. This set of caves is thought to have been a site for sacrifice, and certainly a Tagoror - a meeting place for Guanche assemblies. This important Gran Canaria Guanche site is situated right near the GC-140, and is easily accessed from the GC 1 main motorway. (there may be a sign to it exiting the motorway).
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